I made it to the fish market in Chelsea, and as is so often the case I couldn’t make up my mind. Thus we had a seared Toro appetizer with pepper and ponzu, then Black Cod in the skillet with the leftover kale/watercress/basil mixture cooked in the juices after the fish came out, then the mung bean/ramp mixture plus wine, lemon, and miso cleaned the pan up and became a sauce for all. Many layers of spring green, from tangy and fresh to earthy and profound, all mixed together with the sea.
I opened a 2001 Hecht & Bannier Faugères, having just bought some on Mary’s recommendation, but it’s so big it didn’t work with the subtle harmonies of the dish. It’s really nice now that the food is done; it would be much better with the short ribs which bubble on the stove for tomorrow’s dinner. Shoulda had a rosé…