Sometimes you just need to go back to the archetypes of comfort food- the touchstones of taste- because you’re tired and the seasons are changing, and darn it, there’s a pound of bork (beef and pork) from Fleisher’s in the fridge. Thus did the following become dinner: spaghetti with a slow-cooked meat sauce involving tomato paste, onion, herbs, garlic, wine and several hours. On the side, fresh arugula tossed with the leftover chard and radicchio from last night, and another Cheze Saint-Jseph.
